My Second Type of Shirt Pattern

I finally finished my Scottie dog shirt and I think it turned out quite well. I bought myself a sewing pattern on eBay and this lovely note came with it. It really is lovely to receive a personal message when buying on eBay. Thank you - I did enjoy sewing this and I learned a few things, too.

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I sewed version C. A plain short-sleeved shirt. I used sew-in interfacing, as I don't really like how the iron-on interfacing can bubble when ironed with a steam iron - even after a few washes.

I need to give my shirt a final press - also to remove the disappearing tailor's pen marks. I used quite a lot when setting out the buttons. I intend to record a YouTube video showing you what it looks like.

This shirt pattern is put together differently from any shirt I have seen before. It does not have a separate collar stand, so does not lie the same way a standard mens' shirt collar does.

The collar is made and then sewn into the shirt, in two operations. The first is to attach the collar, then the whole collar is sewn on up to the 2 notches on the collar - these notches are in addition to the standard notches used to line up the collar with the rest of the shirt. If I show you the pattern as it was when I cut it out, you will understand.

The extra piece closest to you is what forms the button placket. The interfacing (I used sew-in), is sewn to the extra piece and when folded inside, forms a placket with no seams. I really like this - it gives a nicer finish than the separate placket on my previous shirt pattern. It also presses smoother and does not curl and bubble when you sew the button-holes.

As you can see from the instructions below, the idea is to notch the upper layer of the collar to fold it inwards and close the seam. The only thing with this, is that it is difficult to create a big enough notch and make it look neat.

I used 'stitch in the ditch' to sew the turned-over ends of the shirt plackets and it is quite invisible from the right side of the shirt, I think a neater option may be to lengthen the shirt placket piece to join at the back, rather than to extend to the shoulders, although I suspect it could show through at the back. 

Something I learned. Definitely check that your collar has been sewn symmetrically. I started to clip the collar in for sewing and noticed that the 'left over' seam that creates the lower part of the collar was non-existent on one side. 

I measured the collar by folding it in half and discovered it was different by almost 6mm. 

I managed to unpick part of it and sew the collar symmetrical to the other half/

As you can see below, they are the same.

I am really pleased with how the buttonholes turned out. I still need to press them when the tailor's ink has faded out.

I also like how the buttons look.

I did not sew the collar shut by hand. I neatly topstitched to close it.

As you can see from the lower collar points, a 6mm difference would have been a disaster.

This collar does not have a collar stand, so it relies on creasing the collar fold in just the correct location to get it to lie straight and flat. I think this will improve with wear.

Chambray is so lovely to work with, although it frays very easily. I used my serger to finish the sleeve seams and the side seams inside the shirt.

If you would like to buy this Scottie Dog Fabric    

This shirt has just enough ease. If I sew it again, I think I might use a low stretch jersey or a stretch-woven fabric. I think I would finish the collar in one go - rather basting it together, then sewing it shut to avoid using the notches. They are a weak spot and are likely to tear if too much stress is applied - this part might also be the first to show wear. I really love the feel of the chambray and I will definitely make more shirts. I think I will see if I can try a shirt made using the burrito method. I didn't put shoulder pads in mine. I have fairly square shoulders and it might be a bit too much. 

At some point, I want to make the version with the ruffles. I love small feminine details like that.

I am not sure what I will make yet. When I decide, I will share it with you.

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