My McCalls Shirt Dress

My latest project is a shirt dress. I don't know why, but I love sewing collared shirts and I wanted to sew a shirt dress. I like how this one turned out and I think I will sew more collared dresses and shirts. 

I made View A in blue.

This was an interesting project to sew as the collar was constructed very differently from the other types of collared shirts I've made recently. 

The collar is sewn onto the bodice, and then the other part of the collar is joined to the two facings for the button plackets of the dress before they are sewn onto the bodice, skirt and collar in one piece. They are then turned right side out and the collar is closed. Personally, I prefer to close this part with a 'stitch in the ditch' sewing machine foot, catching the neat even seam inside the collar. It's easier than hand-stitching and if it is pressed neatly afterwards, the stitches are not easily seen.

Here is the view from the outside of the dress. 

Forgive my stitching -

 it's not perfect -yet.

Here is the view from the inside - as you can see, 

It's a seam right next to the edge.

I took the extra step of finishing the edges of the interfaced facing before sewing them to the bodice and collar and it really does make a difference. I find that poplin begins to fray if the edges aren't finished with a small hem or with an overlocker.

As you can see below, the collar is sewn onto the bodice. The other part of the collar is sewn onto the facings for the button packets. The two parts are matched, collar to collar and placket to the bodice with the fabric right sides together and then sewn on with one continuous seam. I chose to topstitch all-round along the front edges of the button plackets and collar all in one seam once it was turned out to the right side. I just like how, if it is neatly pressed before stitching and again after, the whole seam is more stable during washing and much less reshaping is needed after washing.

With poplin, I love to turn the edge of the seam over, sew it right next to the edge of the fold, and press it evenly with the iron. It just gives a really neat finish to the inside and stops fraying - also it helps to stop the edge of the iron-on interfacing from separating from the fabric. I wish I'd done it on my Megan Dress. It's worth finishing each seam as you go for the best finish.

I like to do the same with the seams - 

no embarrassment if someone sees the inside.

The wall is the best place to put instructions, I don't have to worry about losing my place. I.  just use a magnet to secure the instructions to my sewing board. I also put my phone there to watch tv while I sew or even to record my Youtube videos. I have a GoPro camera, but I have not fully worked out how to set it up for recording. In any case, I hope to bring better quality videos to you when I figure it all out.

I like to finish the seams as I go, it just keeps everything neat. As you can see, this skirt is made in 4 panels. It does help to create an even hem. Less hanging before hemming.

I prefer sleeveless dresses, so I made this sleeveless. I really like the finish if I can pin it such that the bias binding wants to turn under and hide.

I am really happy with my dress and I am looking forward to a warm day to wear it.

Looking at the way this dress goes together, it is a perfect top half to join to shorts for a jumpsuit - and I think I might like to try it - this time I will make the darts a bit deeper so it's a bit more fitted in the back than the dress. I also rather like the idea of buttons right down the fly. With the separate sewn-on plackets, I can easily see how I could create a button fly on the shorts. It's a hack I intend to try soon, but first I have a seersucker fabric that I want to turn into a Burda jumpsuit - with a hack or two. I am hoping it's a straightforward project - I need to see whether I will make a feature of the zip or try to improve my invisible zip sewing - it's something I haven't perfected just yet.

Please let me know what you think of my blog, also, please share your own makes - I'd love to showcase something somebody else has made - including any sewing tips you have.

Find me on YouTube and see how the dress turned out.