Buying a pattern that fits you
Years ago, when patterns were first made available to the public for home sewing, they were generally printed in single sizes. In principle, you would go to the shop with your measurements and choose a pattern in the closest size. Making fitting adjustments was a bit of an art that relatively skilled sewers could do, but was rather difficult for a beginner.
Nowadays, most patterns are published in multiple sizes and are printed on top of each other. Usually, each size outline is drawn in a different line type or colour. The best thing is that the patterns are usually graded equally, and it is usually possible to make some simple alterations when you're tracing a pattern in order to get a good fit.
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You also need to check the back of the pack to see what measurement ranges are covered in their sizing. 34 inches (bust, just as an example) may be the top of the range of the 'small' size in one brand, but in the lower range of the 'medium' in another brand - their sizing is different and often it does not correlate to ready-to-wear sizes, either. This becomes more important if you are wanting to mix and match pattern pieces from different pattern packs and brands, or if you are not confident enough to grade up a size bigger than the largest size in the pattern.
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Going up or down a size?
If you buy a pattern and its one size too small or too large, it can be possible to draft one size bigger or smaller from a pattern, but I would not try any more than two sizes in any direction, as it gets more difficult to ensure notches line up and that facings and back necklines have the correct curvature. This is crucial if you are making a pattern with a complicated collar.
You need to carefully note the relationship of one size line to another. Some parts of the pattern will match exactly, for example, the hemline could be in the same place for the five or so patterns printed on your sheet. In some areas, the lines along curves may appear parallel and in others, the relationship might not be obvious, to begin with. Noting the position of notches, where hems meet side seams and how the darts have virtually even steps between them on the different sizes will help you see how far different lines are spaced from each other as the sizes increase. If you add one or two more lines, spaced equally apart and at the same intervals as the previous two sizes, for all cutting lines and notches, usually the result is fairly good and minimal adjustment is needed when checking the fit. The larger the size difference, the more needs 'fixing' or tweaking to get a good fit. Trouser crotch lines are the most difficult to adjust to a larger or smaller size - even without any zips. The crotch lines between sizes are quite different and the lines don't tend to be parallel.
Making small adjustments:
Personally, I find that some patterns have too much ease in the waist - or not enough. If I look for the sizes on the pattern pieces nearest to my waist measurement, bust measurement and for my hips. I can grade the pattern so that I can have a size 14 bust, a size 16 waist and a size 14 hip. It's really difficult to find ready-to-wear that is sized that way. Just remember to do the same pattern grading on the other bodice pieces.
If you have graded up a size on a pattern which doesn't include a seam allowance, follow the relationship of each new pattern line to the smaller size. Add an extra 1,5cm all around after doing this for the seam allowance. The 'steps' for the pattern lines are not usually parallel, take extra care where there are curves for sleeves and necklines. Definitely 'copy' the neckline from the pattern when creating neck and armhole facings, and if you are unsure, either use bias binding or completely line the bodice by copying the bodice pattern - the finish is so much better.
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